Bacalao al Pil-Pil (Basque Cod in Garlic Oil Emulsion)

Method

1. 1
   • salt cod400 g

   Dry and taste the cod — Pat the desalted cod completely dry and taste a small flake — it should be pleasantly seasoned, not salty. Leave the skin on: the gelatin under it is the only thing that will thicken the sauce.

2. 2
   • olive oil2½ dl
   • garlic8
   • fresh chilli1

   Fry the garlic gently — Pour the olive oil into a wide shallow earthenware dish or a heavy pan and add the sliced garlic and chilli. Set over low heat and fry very gently for about 5 minutes, until the garlic is pale gold — any browner and it turns bitter. Lift the garlic and chilli out with a slotted spoon and reserve.

   ⏱5 min
3. 3
   • salt cod400 g
   • olive oil2½ dl

   Cool the oil down — Let the oil cool until it is only just warm, around 60 °C — you should be able to hold a finger in it for a second. Slide the cod in skin-side down in a single layer; it must never sizzle.

4. 4
   • olive oil2½ dl

   Confit the cod — Poach at the barest trembling heat for about 8 minutes, spooning the oil over the top now and then, until the flesh turns opaque and separates into flakes. White gelatin will bead up around the pieces — that is exactly what you want.

   ⏱8 min
5. 5
   • salt cod400 g
   • olive oil2½ dl
   • water2 tbsp

   Emulsify the pil-pil — Lift out the cod and keep it warm. Pour most of the oil into a jug, leaving the cloudy gelatinous juices in the pan. Off the heat, swirl the pan in steady circles while trickling the warm oil back in a thin thread. Within a couple of minutes the juices turn pale, thick and glossy, like a loose mayonnaise; add the cold water a few drops at a time if it ever looks like splitting.

6. 6
   • salt cod400 g
   • garlic8
   • fresh chilli1
   • fresh parsley2 tbsp
   • saltto taste
   • black pepperto taste

   Spoon the sauce over — Return the cod to the pan, spoon the pil-pil over each piece, and scatter with the reserved garlic, chilli and the parsley. Grind over black pepper, check the salt and serve straight from the dish while the sauce is still warm and creamy.